My Gear
 
On this page you will find out what equipment I use to produce the image you see on this website.  As you will find, nothing is fancy or complicated and everything is readily available from mainstream suppliers.

 

Scope:  Swarovski ATS 80 HD
A superb image from this scope enables very sharp and accurate pictures time and time again. Very hard to fault.
Eyepieces:  Swarovski 20-60x zoom  Also the Eagleeye 10x

Many argue that a zoom eyepiece isn't as sharp as a fixed lens. This maybe true, however the Swaro zoom is very sharp indeed even up towards the heady 60x end of its range. At 20x the image really is first class and little beats it in my opinion.

The Eagleeye 10x (unfortunately) has largely become redundant now the Swaro and Contax has arrived. Not because its a bad eyepiece, on the contrary, its an excellent eyepiece, but its more to do with a miss-match in the set-up. Basically the Contax doesn't like working with the mechanics of the 10x. To get a sasfactory image using this combination means the Contax has to be about 5cm away from the glass of the eyepiece - just too much fiddling for bird photography I'm afraid!

 

Digital Stills Camera:  Contax U4R

With the sad demise of my beloved 4500 (the zoom-in button finally rusted to the body!) and with no real leader coming from the crop of digiscoping cameras I opted for this model. Sadly Contax have stopped making digital cameras (as from December 2004) which means this model is now out of production.

I have added a short review of the U4R to my website (it can be found by clicking here) so I won't dwell on the advantages and disadvantages of this camera here. However its a 4 megapixel camera which boasts a 3.3 frame per second shooting speed and is also incredibly small. Its good, but far from perfect.

 

Camcorder:  Sony TRV-33e
This was a cheap replacement for my old Sony PC3.  The TRV-33e cost around £600 and had much better features than my old PC3.  It is a 1 megapixel camcorder which delivers excellent quality film.  It also has the ability to take 1 megapixel stills too.  These are not fantastic quality and if you want stills its best to go for a dedicated stills camera.  However, saying that, the TRV-33e can get reasonable record-shots in poor light, much better than the Coolpix would.  You also have the added bonus of the extra zoom facility - 10x instead of 4x on the Coolpix.  The only other slightly disappointing thing about this model is the lack of manual focus ring around the lens.  Manual focus can only be done via the touch-screen, and this can be very difficult in bright conditions.  Generally however a very good camcorder.

 

Adapter:  Swarovski DCA
An excellent design. This two part adapter is well made, works incredibly well and is quick to use. A bit pricey but you get what you pay for - quality. Unfortunately only made for Swarovski scopes.

 

Tripod:  Manfrotto 443 cabon fibre legs and 701RC2 head

An essential part of the digiscoping 'package' - your tripod needs to be stable and capable of holding the extra weight of a camera on your scope. I purchased the carbon legs as wind in Ecuador is virtually non-existant and was rarely an issue, unlike being back in the UK. However after having the legs only six months two of the rubber feet fell off, the low-angle adapter (a very useful piece) fell out and one of the leg tightening brackets broke. My respect for Manfrotto's built quality suddenly took a steep tumble. The legs are utter rubbish, I see they have now brought out a new set, which I hope are much better than the 443s. I'm going back to my old metal 055s.

The head however, is superb. Its much better for digicoping having no give when untightened and tightened back up. The balancing bracket is also good too, helping that little bit more when a camera gets put on the end of a scope.


One of the most common problems digiscopers face is getting a static set-up.  Many of the blurry images you will get are down to vibration and camera shake, a lot of these can be remedied by a solid tripod and quality head.  Another tip to getting a sturdier set-up is to use a large bean-bag placed on top of your scope - this reduces the vibration further and should lead to sharper results.

page last updated 29th October 2005


All images and material © Steve Blain 2004

steve@steveblain.co.uk