| On
this page you will find out what equipment I use to produce the
image you see on this website. As you will find, nothing is
fancy or complicated and everything is readily available from
mainstream suppliers.
|
| Scope:
Swarovski ATS 80 HD |
| A
superb image from this scope enables very sharp and accurate pictures
time and time again. Very hard to fault. |
| Eyepieces:
Swarovski 20-60x zoom Also the Eagleeye 10x |
|
Many argue that a
zoom eyepiece isn't as sharp as a fixed lens. This maybe true, however
the Swaro zoom is very sharp indeed even up towards the heady 60x
end of its range. At 20x the image really is first class and little
beats it in my opinion.
The Eagleeye 10x (unfortunately) has largely become redundant now
the Swaro and Contax has arrived. Not because its a bad eyepiece,
on the contrary, its an excellent eyepiece, but its more to do with
a miss-match in the set-up. Basically the Contax doesn't like working
with the mechanics of the 10x. To get a sasfactory image using this
combination means the Contax has to be about 5cm away from the glass
of the eyepiece - just too much fiddling for bird photography I'm
afraid!
|
| Digital
Stills Camera: Contax
U4R |
| With
the sad demise of my beloved 4500 (the zoom-in button finally rusted
to the body!) and with no real leader coming from the crop of digiscoping
cameras I opted for this model. Sadly Contax have stopped making
digital cameras (as from December 2004) which means this model is
now out of production.
I have added a short review of the U4R to my website (it can be
found by clicking here) so I won't dwell on the advantages and disadvantages
of this camera here. However its a 4 megapixel camera which boasts
a 3.3 frame per second shooting speed and is also incredibly small.
Its good, but far from perfect.
|
| Camcorder:
Sony TRV-33e |
| This was
a cheap replacement for my old Sony PC3. The TRV-33e cost
around £600 and had much better features than my old PC3. It
is a 1 megapixel camcorder which delivers excellent quality
film. It also has the ability to take 1 megapixel stills
too. These are not fantastic quality and if you want stills
its best to go for a dedicated stills camera. However, saying
that, the TRV-33e can get reasonable record-shots in poor light,
much better than the Coolpix would. You also have the added
bonus of the extra zoom facility - 10x instead of 4x on the Coolpix.
The only other slightly disappointing thing about this model is the
lack of manual focus ring around the lens. Manual focus can
only be done via the touch-screen, and this can be very difficult in
bright conditions. Generally however a very good camcorder.
|
| Adapter:
Swarovski DCA |
| An
excellent design. This two part adapter is well made, works incredibly
well and is quick to use. A bit pricey but you get what you pay for
- quality. Unfortunately only made for Swarovski scopes.
|
| Tripod:
Manfrotto 443 cabon fibre legs and 701RC2 head |
An
essential part of the digiscoping 'package' - your tripod needs
to be stable and capable of holding the extra weight of a camera
on your scope. I purchased the carbon legs as wind in Ecuador is
virtually non-existant and was rarely an issue, unlike being back
in the UK. However after having the legs only six months two of
the rubber feet fell off, the low-angle adapter (a very useful piece)
fell out and one of the leg tightening brackets broke. My respect
for Manfrotto's built quality suddenly took a steep tumble. The
legs are utter rubbish, I see they have now brought out a new set,
which I hope are much better than the 443s. I'm going back to my
old metal 055s.
The head however, is superb. Its much better for digicoping having
no give when untightened and tightened back up. The balancing bracket
is also good too, helping that little bit more when a camera gets
put on the end of a scope.
One of the most common problems digiscopers face is getting a static
set-up. Many of the blurry images you will get are down to
vibration and camera shake, a lot of these can be remedied by a
solid tripod and quality head. Another tip to getting a sturdier
set-up is to use a large bean-bag placed on top of your scope -
this reduces the vibration further and should lead to sharper results.
|